Writer, Jalopnik. 1985 Jeep J10, 1948 Willys CJ-2A, 1995 Jeep Cherokee, 1992 Jeep Cherokee.
That’s a good question, and one I don’t exactly know the answer to (but I have asked!). My guess is that the hole between the fender and the side of the hood in the back doesn’t provide enough airflow, and you don’t want that gap to be too big, so you pull from the large plenum at the front. But since the front is…
Exactly! I know this stuff from experience, folks!(I also did it alone, and couldn’t make it)
It’d probably be fine, but I ain’t risking cutting a wheel.
Sadly, the center bores of those wheels are too small to clear my hub.
There’s no clutch interlock on lots of older vehicles, so just crank that ignition with the car in low range, and prepare to move forward! (eventually, once you’re going quick enough, the engine will fire up and do the propulsion).
Some vehicles never had one (Pre-’97 Jeep Cherokee XJs, for example).
In first gear and low range, the starter motor’s torque is multiplied enough to get those tires spinning even on steep slopes.
Put the trans in first gear, and the t-case in low-range. Then, without touching the clutch, allow the starter to actually slowly propel the vehicle forward.
Your average person won’t recognize it from a regular ZJ.
The YJ weakened me. The guy saw I was defenseless.
Never cut those beautiful, bulbous CJ5 fenders. Crack pipe.
Ain’t no glory in my line of work. Just misery.
I’ll keep that in mind, thank you!
That’s covered in the video, and briefly touched upon in the writeup, but definitely worth reiterating! Thanks.
You’re gonna want to have that checked out.
And actually, my 1948 Willys CJ-2A has front CV axles!
Yup, that driveshaft needs to be balanced! (Sounds like you know this from experience.)